Osman Yousefzada started his spring/summer 2022 collection by asking “what happened to last year’s clothes?” as he works towards making clothes that serve a purpose other than satisfying commercial demand.
The designer called it a “journey to biodegradable clothes” and created a capsule collection with 15 looks using Tencel Luxe, which is a sustainable alternative for silk from Lenzing Group. It was made from sustainably sourced pulp wood pulp.
Tencel Luxe has been registered with the Vegan Society as biodegradable. It is being marketed as a “truly sustainable option to silk” because the cellulosic filament is made of a renewable material that grows with sunlight and natural rainfall.
It is not only made from wood harvested in sustainable, renewable forests. In accordance with the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy, it also comes from an environmentally sound closed-loop production process that recycles water and reuses production solvents at a rate greater than 99 percent.
Yousefzada spoke out about becoming more sustainable. Designers and brands must constantly look for ways to reduce their environmental impact by actively seeking out fabrics with less impact on the earth and more ethical practices. This is it. Keep moving in the right direction.
“Tencel Luxe filaments offer a host of options that could be better. The versatility of Tencel Luxe filament was amazing to me. The Tencel Luxe filament can be mixed with other fibres, which means designers and brands have endless options.”
Yousefzada, who was keen to put the new sustainable textile advancement into action, worked closely with three different mills: Shinjintex Co. Ltd., Sidonios Knitwear and Cocccon Crafts and Loom. All are well-known for their ethical credentials. Tencel Luxe was used to create a range of fabrics, from delicate silk-like jerseys to paper-light, handwoven organzas to fluid crepe georgette to crisp gabardine weave.
Tencel Luxe’s collection featured highlights such as sheer jumpsuits in gossamer lacy jersey, a black party gown with puffed sleeves in stripes taffeta, and a baby blue belted dress with bishop sleeves. A sharp blazer with exaggerated shoulders was also included.
Leonie Von Lieres (head of global marketing, account management, Tencel Luxe) said: “Osman represents a great example of a designer making progress towards being more sustainable in the fabrics that he uses. Tencel Luxe filament can be mixed with other fibers to make a wide range of textiles. The filament is also made according to high sustainability standards and is biodegradable. It is made from Earth and returns to Earth.”
“We are getting more interest from global luxury brands wanting to increase the sustainability of their collections. Osman’s SS22 collection has proven that brands don’t have to sacrifice quality or aesthetics in order to make their offerings more sustainable.”
Yousefzada explains that the collection is a story of opposite elements and emotions. There are couture silhouettes and details created to draw attention with workwear shapes. There’s a joyful excess of ruffles, with architectural tailoring and floor-grazing arms, balanced by the relaxed masculinity and tunics and pants.
Yousefzada’s tailoring skills and draping abilities are evident throughout the entire wardrobe. These range from biodegradable gowns and casual ensembles to head-turning sheer catsuits and the bohemian charm that hand-loomed, ikat separates bring to the table.
The collection included 15 pieces that used Tencel Luxe. Other elements were made of artisanal fabrics from India and Pakistan. These techniques have not changed in centuries and have been passed down from family to family.
The brand continued its Last Yards initiative to reduce waste in this collection. Pieces are made from deadstock fabrics that Yousefzada discovered on his journeys of inspiration. These pieces will be limited edition numbered items.
You can watch the full Osman Yousefzada SS22 collection below.