Designers sometimes go against the grain and show collections that excite and hypnotize the audience. Similar moments of triumph were witnessed at Alexander McQueen and Rei Kawakubo as well as Martin Margiela, Phoebe Philo, which each single-handedly defined a new moment for fashion.
On Thursday, Rick Owens at Paris Fashion Week was awash with mist. The Palais de Tokyo’s runway, infused with mist, served as the backdrop for a heady ritual that reflected an urgent need: to be free, be our best, and to wear equal parts warrior and goddess in unexpected and uncontrollable situations. Owens’ admirers and customers know this maxim well.
Owens stated, “I consider myself someone that would do any thing in the pursuit of beauty.” Owens’ latest work is a career-defining masterpiece. His technical prowess in draping, shaping, and fusing cloth into unusual forms was a huge draw for the audience.
Owen’s cloths don’t look like the typical fibres found on the high street, or ready-to-wear. There are artisanal silks, cashmeres, wools, leathers, and even cotton. These gladiator cloaks, and gowns are not possible to sculpt with anything less than the best. They must be made by skilled seamstresses.
Beauty is a pursuit
It was the triumphant return to Paris’ runway after two seasons of being shown audience-free at Owens’ Venice home. The diaphanous gowns, and bias-cut sheaths, were exceptional pieces that could not be replicated by fast fashion retailers. The engineering of a leather bra top that can be removed from the middle was challenging. A cut-away pleated dress, with perfect skin column, was also challenging.
Rick Owens’ furniture and homeware are now a thriving business alongside ready-to-wear. His signature is unapologetically about beauty but it is also more timeless and relevant than anyone could imagine.