Flexibility is key to keeping your skin-care routine as effective as possible. You may think you know your skin well, but then you have a breakout or your moisturizer begins to swell. It’s important to have a basic understanding of skin-care products to help you troubleshoot any situation. Skin dehydration can come in many forms, including redness, dullness, and blackheads. When you think, must have hydration, hyaluronic acid might be where you start. Polyglutamic acid is a less-known acid that’s being used with hyaluronic acid. It’s becoming more popular according to skin-care professionals.

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What is polyglutamic Acid?

Polyglutamic acid (or PGA) is similar to hyaluronic acids (HA), but it has a larger molecular structure. “Polyglutamic acid, like hyaluronic acid, is a humectant that chemically attracts water molecules” explains dermatologist Hadley King, MD. “The difference is that the PGA molecule, a water-soluble peptide, has a larger molecule size. This means it doesn’t penetrate as deeply into the skin.”

What is it used for?

Polyglutamic acid can be thought of as cling wrap. Dr. King says that polyglutamic acid forms a hydrogel layer on the skin’s surface, which prevents water from evaporating. Its occlusive properties means it retains moisture. Dr. Purvisha Patel (dermatician and founder of Visha Skincare) says that polyglutamic acids have a number of skin-plumping effects. Dr. Patel says that PGA, like HA plumps the surface of skin cells and reduces wrinkles and fine lines.

What should I do with it?

Here’s the general advice: Use PGA AND HA together. Dr. King says that polyglutamic acid should be used in a hydrating serum containing hyaluronic acids. “Hyaluronic acid gets absorbed deeper than polyglutamic acid because polyglutamic acid has a larger molecule size, so the result is hydration at different levels of the skin.” Dr. King notes that PGA also pairs nicely with retinol, niacinamide, vitamin C, lactic acid. Although polyglutamic acid is generally considered gentle enough for all skin types, it’s important to remember that it’s still an acid, and both Dr. King and Dr. Patel recommend layering a moisturizer on top of it.

What is a good formula?

Dr. Patel claims that the Inkey List makes one of her favourite polyglutamic acid serums. Dr. King recommends Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Serum Crystal Elixir, which contains glycerin, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, and polyglutamic acid – all humectants that help create an immediate plumping effect. Omorovicza just launched a nighttime serum formulated with PGA as a key ingredient used in conjunction with vitamin A. You can also bet that there will be more PGA-packed skin care products launching in 2022, as more research is being done on its efficacy.

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