Fashion, long considered elitist and a barrier to social inclusion, can be used as a tool.
This message remained even after the conclusion of the 52nd season of SPFW – Sao Paulo Fashion Week. The event was held at the Brazilian Cultural Pavilion, Ibirapuera Park in Sao Paulo. The catwalk was dominated by diversity and featured a variety of bodies, including those who were tall, short, fat, and cis, as well as trans and young people.
Diversity was not limited to the catwalk. There was also inclusivity displayed by brands, with fashion by black designers, exconvict stylists, and seamstresses. They were all trained in a program organised by the city council of Sao Paulo. The parade featured virtual clothes, also known as’skins’.
“Since 1980’s, we have been watching the transformation of an elite fashion. We are now impacted by a new universe, especially after the pandemic. We had already started to bring the diversity discussions, so we created a rule for racial equity three years ago. This is the first time that we have seen this in person. Parallel to this, much has happened. The line-up has changed and black designers are now being viewed. These are very real events that have many impacts. They are emotional (because we’re seeing each other again face-to-face), economic, intellectual (because new processes are being seen), a new public passionate about fashion, and everything is impacting us,” Paulo Borges, creative director of the event, said.
Cria Costura’s and Ponto Firme Project offer social opportunities through sewing, crochet and other forms of stitching and crocheting
The event opened with 23 women who had been trained in fashion design by In-MOD – National Institute of Fashion and Design. Jefferson de Assis was the mentor and each student created 12 pieces. The parade featured the finished product.
The event opened with 23 women who received training in fashion management (creation and creation) from Jefferson de Assis. This was an initiative of In-MOD – National Institute of Fashion and Design. Cria Costura (Create sewing) is a creative accelerator. We wanted to create a feeling of creativity because seamstresses are often seen as only machine operators. The creative part is left to designers. It is essential to have seamstresses who are creative. We had ten meetings in which we encouraged everyone to learn about design, production, management, and other aspects of the business. Assis says that it is a materialization effort. The group is diverse and includes students who have taken basic sewing classes and those who already own a shop and would like to start a confectionery.
The consultant and designer explained that this is a pilot project. They hope the results will lead to new projects. The event featured 12 pieces created by each student, and their results were displayed at the event.
The Ponto Firme fashion showcase inaugurated the space in downtown Sao Paulo. Under the direction of Gustavo Silvestre, crochet classes will be offered to ex-inmates of the prison system. This issue showed the progress of the project. These pieces are exquisitely designed and have received fashion information and technical improvements. Light dresses, T-shirts made of mesh with crochet inserts and crochet jacquard tank t-shirts are all available. The highlight is the long dress in canvas with satin thread and the crochet caps made by teens from the East Zone (Croche De Vilao).
Silvestre also highlighted the jackets made of wheat bags, sugar and in an “aesthetic of shortage”. He explained that the OAB human rights team – Organization of Lawyers of Brazil- is screening prisoners who are able to participate in the group. Currently, only men can take part.
Sankofa Project brings seven emerging brands
The Sankofa Project brought seven new brands to SPFW for its second participation. The movement, which has been through mentoring and sponsorship brands, aims to bring black and indigenous designers into the spotlight. It was co-authored by Pretos na Moda, Blacks in Fashion. It was founded by Natasha Soares (Veter Afro Indigena na Moda) and Rafael Silverio.
Meninos Rei displayed a mix of vibrant prints and new volumes in both men’s or women’s clothing on the first day. The Mao de Mae Atelier presented a selection of checkered, striped, and crocheted pieces. They also brought jacquard and hot pants to give the event a more elaborate look.
Santa Resistencia was all fluidity, with tailored pieces and striking prints from colourful cities. It also used traditional crafts and arts reclaimed details. Naya Violeta, a Goias brand, highlighted its extravagant print with comfortable models for women’s and menswear.
Silverio presented custom-made pieces with pink satin lapels. The brand’s design also featured cut-outs, a mix of fabrics, and large armholes that blended with the back and tie at front were important features.
Silverio presented tailoring in pink satin lapels. Cutouts, a mixture of fabrics and large armholes that join with the back to tie in the front, leaked. Details were added by the Marias in macrame, frills and lurex knitwear. The pants with zippers at two points in the length are a highlight. They can also be made into shorts or cropped. Mille Lab was able to provide work in micro skirts, sweatshirts, and pants for both men and women. However, the strong point was the powerful anti-racist speech in spoken poem and rap.
Comfort, tailoring and tradition mixed with a sporty vibe are all part of the comfort-oriented lifestyle
The collections featured a lot of comfort pieces. These could be found in A La Garconne and Ellus, as well as in ALG (the second brand of Alexandre Herchcovitch, Fabio Souza).
The parades featured plus-sized models in low-waisted jeans, sweatshirt fabrics, Grunge-era plaids, and more. Ronaldo Fraga showed tailor-made outfits using RenauxView fabrics. The film featured both company employees and models under contract. It was full of jacquard, poetic joy, and a lot more.
Baska, the newcomer, was headed by Carlinhos Maia, an influencer and businessman from Alagoas. Dudu Farias was the creative director. They brought monochrome looks that mixed tailor-made pieces and sweatshirts. Also included were jackets with removable sleeves and dresses and jumpsuits featuring lace-up details and marked waists.
Joao Pimenta combines comfort and tailor-made pieces. It has wide-legged trousers with high Italian bars, pleated skirts, and wide-legged pants. The houndstooth, Prince of Wales and chequered materials were accompanied by long overcoats and chalk stripes. Some looks were marked by Matelasse satin jackets or overcoats.
Weider Silverio showcased slinky skirts and dresses in terry mesh. These models offer comfort in more refined designs. Vertical cut-outs were used to mark the waist. You can also see a floral print on a black background. Lined with pink fabric, white coats were lined in elegant pink fabrics.
Fernanda Yamamoto, a Sao Paulo Cultural Centre artist, presented an exhibition using models from Yuba, Mirandopolis, and Sao Paulo state’s interior.
The fashion design team created silk organza inserts using cheesecloth and three kimonos for the dance shows. Many of the kimonos were entirely made of silk and featured beautiful colour combinations.
Photos courtesy Fotosite Agency